A tribute to Catherine O'Sullivan
Posted by Claire
Catherine was an early player on the independent London food scene. Following a role as Head Chef at the Arts Theatre Café in London's Theatreland, she decided to take the plunge, look for a site and open her own restaurant.
Arancia was the result, opening on Southwark Park Road in Bermondsey in 1997 in a premises that had been a greasy spoon. Borough Market had not yet opened to the public as a retail destination. It was a brave move into an area devoid of restaurants which she herself considered somewhat crazy. It also goes without saying that there were few women opening restaurants back then.
Initially Catherine continued serving up the fried breakfasts while she introduced her beloved Italian cuisine at the weekends. As word got around, people started making the journey across London to see what the fuss was about; a clutch of favourable reviews added to the momentum, and Arancia soon became a full-time restaurant.
Catherine very much had her own style. There was definitely the feeling of being hosted in the home of a friend. A sense of occasion always greeted us on arrival as we entered into a mutual pact; her delight in serving up her dishes of the day and our delight in discovering and savouring them.
Her menus were small, varied and always interesting, built around the season and what was most vibrant and interesting in the market that day. Today these qualities are taken for granted, but to me and others she was a pioneer shining a light before these things became the norm.
She was unfussy and unshowy yet dedicated and passionate; warm, humorous, self-deprecating and a great storyteller too. Her distinctive, warm, soft, melodic voice alone could engender world peace! (Catherine was from County Clare in southern Ireland).
We held our first Ganapati staff Christmas party at Arancia in December 2005. It felt important to share the experience of Catherine's creativity with our newly formed team, and they loved it. She became a regular visitor to Ganapati and there was a strong mutual appreciation between us. She even did a time in the Ganapati kitchen helping us out through a staff shortage, and the chefs became very fond of her.
Catherine decided to hang up the Arancia apron for the last time in 2009 as the challenges of running a restaurant pretty much single-handedly took their toll (successive staffing problems were a part of this). More recently she was to be found on the floor at Borough Kitchen, the cookware shop in Borough Market, a role she really relished, working with like -minded people, surrounded by gorgeous culinary equipment and helping people choose their ideal coffee pot or saute pan.
She had been living with cancer and very sadly died in the summer of 2026.
Memories of Arancia - Sue Amos
Stepping from a wet pavement into a tiny, orange coloured corner cafe was such a special treat. Far off the beaten track in south east London, long before Bermondsey and Peckham became foodie destinations, was a small homage to the food of Italy. A forerunner perhaps of what was to come, and a haven of deliciousness, familiarity and homely food.
Settling in for the evening meant cosy jostling with other eaters, allowing good views of the dishes and what might be ordered. At the back, glimpses of the tiny hot, bright kitchen. Catherine and her assistants prepping, finishing, plating and garnishing, smells wafting out, waiting staff doubling back and forth to feed the happy diners and keep them topped up. An alchemical furnace transforming the day's veg.
Little arancini, round and snug on a plate, oozing mozzarella and scattering crumbs, followed by a pumpkin risotto or slow roast lamb, nestled on beans, with wispy dustings of parmesan.
A small, tall interior, rough brickwork, vibrant paint, tables crammed and large shop windows trailing raindrops on winter nights, the light show of traffic on Southwark Park Road streaming by, movie-like and fast whilst inside in the subdued light, quiet chatting and laughter rose up, as people drawn from far and wide in the foodie desert that was, clustered happily, having found their heaven.
Finally, the rich and remarkable chocolate semifreddo. A landmark of a dessert in those times and that foodie wasteland, wedged in my memory as a perfect end to a fulfilling meal, a section of sweetness dusted and enrobed, awaiting a double macchiato to help smooth it down.
We were sad to see Arancia close, back in 2009 but many memories remain of happy and tasty visits.
A Guardian review
Here is a review from the Guardian from 2004 that sums up the Arancia vibe perfectly:
Arancia Restaurant
52 Southwark Park Road, London SE16Outsiders may regard the neighbourhood as 'dodgy', but that doesn't stop lovers of Italian food beating a path to Arancia, where Cathy O'Sullivan turns out a brief but impressive menu of five starters and five mains every week for about £23 per head. From the signature dish of arancini - fried risotto croquettes with mozzarella - through scallops and squid served in a butter sauce with a subtle hint of pastis, her dishes tend to be simple yet imaginative. The restaurant's décor could best be described as 'front-room charming', but everyone raves about the huge goblets of delicious yet inexpensive wine, the fab food and the laid-back atmosphere.